This article was originally published in the Detour in July 2024

Like most travellers, this wonder of the world has held a firm spot on my bucket list for some time now. However, being a budget traveller, I’d put it off due to rumours of gasp-worthy permit prices and extortionate train fares. But when I found some pretty reasonably priced flights from my local airport to Lima, I decided it was time to bite the bullet.

Given my short 2-week travel dates and the long list of other Peruvian activities I planned to cram in, I soon ruled out tackling the entire Inca Trail. My mission: somehow balance visiting Machu Picchu on a budget, quickly, and meaningfully.

First off, timing. I left my dates in the hands of the cheap-flight-gods, but if you have the option, you may want to plan a bit more strategically. April–October is the dry season, while November–March is the wet season. Side note: the Inca Trail closes throughout February, but Machu Picchu remains open year round. I happened to visit in March, so was expecting something like this. Instead, I was met with blinding sunshine, mist-free views and even a little souvenir sunburn!

Now, onto the tickets. Aim to book these at least a couple of months in advance—any closer than that, and you run the risk of them selling out. This bit is probably the most confusing, so take time to do your research before booking. Essentially, there are different tickets offering access to 4 separate circuits, and plenty of add-ons like an Inca bridge crossing or additional mountain hike.

When I bought my ticket, I was able to select a bundle of all 4 routes, but now it appears that you can only select one, so choose wisely! Ideally, the official site is the best place to buy tickets, but as of writing this, I can’t seem to get through the booking process. Alternatively, a reputable agency like this one is also a safe bet. They’re currently listing adult entry tickets at £45/$59 (which is the same as what I paid), or students can get half price entry with a valid student ID.

With your tickets secured, it’s time to look at transport. Assuming, like me, you’ll land in Lima, you’ll need to make your way to Cusco. Flying is the most convenient way, with one-way fares costing around £40—£50—although this may get even cheaper if this new, controversial airport opens.

From there, you’ll need to head to Aguas Calientes—the home town of Machu Picchu. This is where things get annoying. There are two train companies operating a return service: Inca Rail and Peru Rail. And just know that if you buy a ticket from Cusco, it will involve an initial short coach ride to Ollantaytambo first before boarding the train.

Both companies charge a minimum of £45 one-way for the approx. 35 km trip from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes. And that is pretty much the only option they want tourists to take. From researching online, it doesn’t appear that you can hike there, cycle there or even drive there yourself. There is, however, a somewhat secretive bus you can take—see more details here. If I had more time, this is 100% the option I would have gone with.

Sadly for my wallet, it was the £100 return train option for me. On the plus side, the train was quick, comfy and offered spectacular views throughout the entire journey. The downside? Besides being insanely over-priced, it felt…er…weird. 

As we queued up, waiting to board our carriage, blaring rhythmic drums and panpipes abruptly cut through the tranquil early morning bird songs. Suddenly, a rainbow-clad procession of tired-looking rail workers hopped through the crowd. Thinking that may have been a performative one-off, I was just as taken aback when, mid-journey, 2 more rainbow-clad performers acted out a 10-min exaggerated love story in the aisle of our carriage. To say that everyone felt uncomfortable would be an understatement.

The town of Aguas Calientes is pretty small, but you’ll find heaps of hotels dotted all along the roaring river. Despite the immense concentration of tourists, it still has a pretty charm with enough to do to keep you busy for a day or two, like visiting hot springs and waterfalls. I stayed in this hotel, which set me back £50/night including breakfast.

Finally, on to Machu Picchu. From the town, you're faced with two options: book a return shuttle bus up to the entrance for £20, or hike it. Since I had already skipped the Inca Trail and wanted to save money, you can guess which one I chose. 

I was surprised to find that the hike itself was really enjoyable, and I only came across one other person along the way. It’s a very peaceful walk up, with a soundtrack of birds chirping and the distant whirr of the shuttle bus on the road below. Thankfully, the path is also shrouded in leafy green foliage, so you have plenty of protection from the elements.

When I reached the top, everything suddenly felt very bright. I'd just spent an hour or so walking undercover, and when I emerged, the sun was in full force. There wasn't much shade up there at all, so at times when it got a little too much, we had to huddle under terrace ledges or large rocks to get a break from the rays.

I was really impressed, though—the complex is much larger than I expected, and there was ample space to wander around without getting stuck in throngs of tourists. It's also really well maintained—the site is spotless, the grass is green, even the llamas looked happy! The only downside was the lack of information once you’re up there, but that can be easily fixed by booking a guide.

Lauren's pro trips:

• They won’t let you in a second earlier than the exact time slot on your ticket
• Bring your passport, otherwise you’ll be denied entry.
• There’s no food/drink stands or toilets on site, so bring snacks and do everything you’ve gotta do before going in!
• Once you leave, you can't re-enter
• In total, I spent around 2 hours looking around the site
• Don’t worry too much about altitude sickness. Aguas Calientas is much lower than Cusco, and you probably won’t feel any effects there.